Rara Reverie: My solo trip to Nepal’s largest lake

They say the best views come after the toughest journeys—and Rara Lake is a true testament to that.  This hidden gem nestled in Nepal’s remote Karnali province was not on top of my places to go. However, fate had its own plan. What began as a simple visit to my maternal hometown unexpectedly turned into an unforgettable adventure to one of Nepal’s most breathtaking destinations. This journey also marked a personal milestone: I added three new districts of Nepal—Kalikot, Jumla, and Mugu—to my travel map. Each place unfolded its own story, with shifting landscapes and unique cultures. From navigating winding mountain roads and wandering through pine forests and lush meadows, to that magical first glimpse of Rara’s shimmering turquoise waters, everything felt surreal. In this blog, I will take you through my solo journey, share the routes I took, and everything you need to plan your own trip to the majestic Rara Lake.

 

Left: Horses and cattle grazing in the chaur (grassland) alongside Rara Lake.

Right: Newly opened eateries in Birendranagar.         

My journey kicked off with a bus ride from Kathmandu to Surkhet—a grueling 21-hour trip that began at 5 PM and ended around 1 PM the next day. The long haul was mainly due to roadwork along the Narayanghar–Butwal stretch of the East-West Highway. As I finally rolled into Surkhet, I was still unsure if I would make it to Rara. Returning to Birendranagar after six years felt like stepping into a new city. The transformation was striking—wide, well-maintained roads, new eateries, and beautiful green spaces had sprung up, giving the city a vibrant feel. I spent the next five days reconnecting with relatives and exploring the area. From the ancient serenity of Kakre Bihar to the peaceful waters of Bulbule Tal, I also checked off Jarbuta, Gotikada, Deuti Bajai, and Katakuwa from my local sightseeing list.

On the sixth day, I finally made the move toward Rara, hopping into a Scorpio bound for Jumla. With seven passengers, it was a far more comfortable choice than the crowded local buses. We stopped for lunch in Dungeshwar temple, a small roadside spot in Dailekh district. The stretch between Dailekh and Kalikot on the Karnali Highway was the roughest, with dusty and bumpy roads. At Manma, the small hilltop headquarters of Kalikot, we took a break to pick up some local fruits and veggies. After an entire day of bouncing through the hills, we pulled into Khalanga Bazar around 6 PM—dusty, exhausted, but one-step closer to Rara. Jumla valley, with its lush green hills, apple farms, farmlands, and cool weather, impressed me. At Jumla I visited sites including Chandannath temple, Khalanga Gumba,  Jumla Airport and Karnali Academy of Health Sciences.

Left: The Karnali Highway as it descends towards the Jumla valley. 

Right: Landscape in Jumla with fields, houses, apple trees, and alpine forests. 

After spending two days soaking in the sights of Jumla, it was time to press on. At 10 AM, I boarded a Bolero bound for Mugu. Having travelled solo to Jumla, I was lucky to cross paths with two fellow travelers who were also headed to Rara. Joining them turned the rest of the journey into a shared adventure, filled with great company and memories. This stretch turned out to be the most challenging leg of the journey—narrow, unpaved roads carved directly into the rugged hills and wooden bridges made for a nerve-wracking ride. Around 3 PM, after about five hours on the road and a lunch stop at Bulbule, we finally arrived in Talcha. A drizzle welcomed us, adding a layer of serenity to the already raw and remote landscape. From there, we laced up our boots and hiked to Salleri, where we spent the night at the well-known Danphe Hotel that was recently rebuilt after the original lakeside lodge was damaged. The long wait was finally over. At the crack of dawn the next morning, we set off ready to witness the first glimpse of Rara.

                      

Left: Rara Lake as seen from the Murma hill. 

Right: The picturesque view of Rara just after takeoff from Talcha airport. 

After spending two unforgettable nights in the magical embrace of Rara, it was time to say goodbye. Luckily, the three of us managed to secure seats on a Summit Air flight to Nepalgunj. Taking off from Talcha Airport—perched at 2,375 meters with its short, hilltop runway—was an adventure in itself. However, the real highlight came moments after takeoff. As the plane soared above the landscape, I caught a breathtaking aerial view of Rara Lake, its deep blue waters cradled by alpine forests. It felt surreal—like something out of a dream, suspended between earth and sky.

A Hidden Jewel Tucked in the Wild

Rara Lake is the largest lake in Nepal, located within the Rara National Park—the country’s smallest national park. It is a hidden gem in the truest sense. Surrounded by pristine pine forests and far removed from the usual tourist places, Rara keeps its beauty veiled with forests until the very end. It is only in the final leg of the trail that the landscape suddenly opens up, revealing the breathtaking view. Having clicked numerous pictures and videos around the lake, we hiked to Murma top via Murma village to see the birds-eye view.

Untapped Tourism Potential

Despite its stunning beauty, Rara hasn’t yet drawn the number of visitors it truly deserves. During my time there, I could not help but feel that its immense potential remains largely untapped. The primary hurdles seem to be poor road infrastructure. Moreover, there was a lack of awareness among locals about how to fully benefit from tourism and hospitality opportunities. With better connectivity and community-based tourism efforts, Rara could easily become one of Nepal’s top travel destinations for trekkers, adventure seekers, and families.

Left: Blooming flowers around the lake and inside the national park. 

Right: Sunrise from the resort where we stayed near the lake. 

Tips for travelling to Rara Lake

Here are some essential tips from my side to help you make the most of your journey to Rara. Hope they are useful!

1.       Best weather for Rara: The best time of the year to visit Rara is spring (March-May) or autumn (September-October). Travelling in spring, as I did, will be a bonus as we can also witness the blossoming flowers and rhododendron.

2.       Reaching there: There are different routes that one can take to Rara. The most comfortable would be taking a flight to Talcha airport from Nepalgunj and then hiking or getting a ride to the entrance of the national park. Alternately, reserved vehicles can be booked from Kathmandu or Nepalgunj for groups. You can also break the journey in Surkhet or Jumla to visit the places on the way.

3.       Packing: Although Rara Lake is not at a very high altitude, and does not involve long hikes, it is best to carry the basic medicines, warm clothes, and other necessities. 

4.       Take your time: If you would like to enjoy the trip to the fullest, consider having extra days for side trips to nearby Sinja valley and Tatopani.