Reminiscing Everest: Altitude, Attitude, and More

 “You must have seen Everest up close?”

 It is a question that almost every Nepali encounters when in conversation with a foreigner. More often than not, the answer is an awkward smile followed by an abashed “no”. But my friend and I decided to change that. So, with a mix of excitement and uncertainty, we set off on what is often called the ultimate Himalayan adventure—the trek to Everest Base Camp (EBC). When we began planning the trip, doubts were plenty, both in our minds and our circle. After all, this was our very first major trek in Nepal. But we soon realized that more than physical endurance or high altitude, it was the mindset that would define our successful experience. What happened next was nothing short of transformative. The trek turned into a journey of a lifetime—one that opened our eyes to the breathtaking geography, the warmth of the Himalayan communities, and the unique culture in this exotic region of Nepal. In this blog, I will share the key moments and reflections from our EBC adventure, along with tips for anyone going to take on this incredible trek.

            

 Left: The view of the runway at Tenzing-Hilary airport, infamous as the world’s most dangerous airport, with snow-capped peaks in the background. 
Right: The Dudh Koshi river running between hills with alpine forests. 

Majestic geography: As soon as one begins the trial, visitors are welcomed by the fairytale landscape covered with alpine forests, towering snow-capped peaks in the background, and the rushing Dudh Koshi River. Being home to the mighty Everest and other 8000ers like Lhotse, Makalu, and Cho Oyu, the elevation in the trek is incomparable to anything else. For instance, the village of Lobuche is at 4,910 meters, which is more than the highest peak in Europe, Mont Blanc, at 4,805 meters. This sublime landscape we experienced is what made us realize why people from around the world come for the EBC trek despite waiting for days in Ramechhap due to flight delays and the hassles of jolting roads leading up to the Khumbu region. It also made us cognizant of the craze of getting to Everest among the adventure seekers, young and old, from all walks of life. Moreover, the Everest region as a whole is a major revenue generator for Nepal, with over 43 thousand tourists having entered the Sagarmatha National Park in the last nine months. This translates to over NPR 200 million in revenue from the entry fees alone. 

                                                
Left: A yak being used to transport the goods of trekkers and mountaineers along the trail. 
Right: Helicopters parked at the Tenzing-Hilary airport, Lukla. 

Helicopters and Yaks: Unlike other treks in Nepal, getting to the start of this trek is in itself a risky endeavor. Once we safely land in the infamous Tenzing-Hilary airport, the only modes of transportation are yaks and mules. The other essential pillars supporting trekkers and mountaineers are the porters, guides, and Sherpas. Among them, we found out that the hardest-working yet neglected are the porters, usually non-Sherpas from low-lying areas who earn a bare minimum yet have to carry up to 100 kilograms in the difficult terrain. On the other hand, being the most commercial trekking route in Nepal, we saw an abundant use of helicopters for transportation of people, goods, and emergency rescues.

Seasonal Migration: Migration, like in other parts of Nepal’s Himalayas, is also widely prevalent in the Everest region. Most of the teahouse owners we met along the way moved to Austria and Germany to work in hotels and lodges. After the end of the EBC trekking season, the Sherpas either return to Kathmandu or go abroad to work. Moreover, many had their children abroad with little interest in coming back and working on the family business. Seasonal migration is not limited to the Sherpa. It is prevalent among cooks, porters, and guides. For instance, we met with a cook who used to work in Croatia and came to work in a hotel in the Everest region during the season. We also met a guide who had married a Sri Lankan living in Australia, whom he had met during a trek. 

A typical inside view of a teahouse along the EBC trek. This is a lodge in Dingboche (4350 meters) from where many start feeling the altitude.

Food and hospitality: The Sherpas are well-known for their hospitable and friendly nature. Unlike our initial perception, we found them to be supportive, especially for domestic trekkers like us. It was as if they were fed up with seeing only foreigners in their lodge. Due to the increasingly difficult and remote terrain, the price of food and water shot up as we climbed higher. While having lunch in Somare, en route from Debuche to Dingboche, the teahouse proprietor expressed her astonishment at meeting domestic trekkers. She said that the Khumbu region, despite being part of Nepal, is another desh (country) to which we responded jokingly: Yo desh ta mahango rahecha (This country seems expensive). She empathized with us and replied that it was because of the remoteness of the place, with the primary customers being foreigners. During our interaction, we found out that the food prices had nearly doubled in recent years following the coronavirus pandemic. Nevertheless, it was interesting to find amenities like a hot shower, fancy coffee shops, and diverse cuisine even in the upper stops of the trek. 

                                                      
          
Left: A coffee house with abundant options for Western and international cuisine. 
Right: Yakbucks coffee, a knock-off brand of Starbucks in Namche Bazar. 

Cultural amalgamation: Nepalis make up only 10–15% of the total trekkers at EBC, with foreigners comprising the overwhelming majority. So much so, we were confused to be foreigners multiple times during the trek, only to be recognized after we spoke Nepali. This has made the route a melting pot of people from around the globe, with the food, accommodation, and services catered to meet international needs. For instance, while scrolling through the menu, we could see the variety from western cuisines like pizza, sandwiches, toasts, and spaghetti to Indian food like chapati, local Sherpa food, and Nepali Dal Bhat and momo. We observed that this diversity in the trial had contributed to the cosmopolitan mindset and lifestyle of the local people.

                                                                        
  
Left: Everest hiding in the middle in between Lhotse and Nuptse.
Right: At the famous Everest Base Camp stone.

Highlight of the trek: Every day was filled with unique experiences for us. However, the highlight of our trek was the final stretch from Gorakhsep to the base camp on 12 April, 2025. We began our much-anticipated hike to Everest Base Camp from Buddha Lodge in Gorakhshep at 9 AM. The trail was a mix of steep climbs and descents, but every step was worth it under the shadow of the world’s highest peak. By 11:15 AM, we arrived at the legendary EBC, feeling accomplished and in awe. The views were surreal—majestic peaks all around, the iconic Khumbu Icefall, and of course, Mount Everest hiding itself in the background. We made sure to capture plenty of photos and videos to remember the moment. As forecasted, the weather stayed clear right up until we reached the base camp. But soon after noon, clouds rolled in, bringing light snow showers that added a magical touch to our return journey. Moreover, by sheer luck, our way back lined up perfectly with the Nepali New Year, giving us the unforgettable experience of celebrating it at the world’s highest Irish pub in Namche Bazar

Trekking in the Everest region is undoubtedly one of the most unforgettable experiences in the world. Having completed our bucket list in the first attempt, we were more than happy returning from the trek. During our trek, one thing that stood out was the scope for a few small, yet impactful improvements that could go a long way. Things like more signposts along the route, especially at junctions, enhancing the use of dustbins and proper waste management, establishing emergency contact points, and constructing public toilets in major settlements. These aren't grand-scale infrastructure projects, but thoughtful additions that would improve safety, cleanliness, and the overall trekking experience. As Nepal continues to welcome travelers from around the globe, such enhancements can help balance tourism with environmental responsibility and local well-being.


Top 10 tips for EBC trek

Planning to trek to Everest Base Camp? Here are ten essential tips from my side to help you make the most of your journey. Hope you find them helpful!

1.  Have reserve days: Up in the mountains, uncertainty looms, and you will never know what will happen at what time. Therefore, it is best to have 3-5 reserve days just in case the flights are delayed or you have to stay in the same place for more days to acclimatize. Plan for at least 14 days if you would like to complete the entire trek and side hikes like Kalapathhar, Everest View Hotel, or Khumjung village.

2. Dal Bhat power 24 hour (plus more): Dal Bhat is a lifesaver lunch for both long and short days during the trek. But there is more. Garlic, chili pickles, Sherpa stew, and timur (Himalayan Sichuan pepper) also helped us to deal with the high altitude and rugged terrain. However, remember to have them in a limited quantity to avoid any side effects. Most of the foreign trekkers prefer western food over dal bhat, which can be counterproductive, as the quality and quantity might not be the best.

3. Listen to your body: We heard and saw multiple instances when trekkers pushed themselves beyond their limits and suffered. While ascending and descending, always take short breaks for breathing or hydration. Getting enough rest is crucial, and do not keep moving if you feel exhausted. It is better to call it a day rather than lose days if you fall sick.

4. Take first aid: Carry all the basic medicines, including those for headaches, cold, cough, stomachache, and high altitude. Do not forget to carry the pills that you have been taking regularly for any health reasons. Additionally, take bandages, ORS, hand sanitizers, and ointments like Vicks VapoRub.

5. Book teahouses and lodges in advance: This is true especially in the peak trekking season (March to May) for higher stops like Lobuche and Gorakhshep due to limited accommodation. It is better to get your places secured for all days through a call, WhatsApp, or online portals. This is true particularly if you are travelling solo without guides.

6. Pack as light as possible: One of the major mistakes made by beginner trekkers, as we did, is to pack more than needed. Pack only the essentials and try to share if you are trekking in a group. You will thank yourself for packing light, especially in the steep uphill climbs. Having said that, do carry a warm sleeping bag, which can be rewarding for freezing nights.

7. Carry enough cash: Carry a bit more cash than your estimate, as everything gets costlier when you go up. It is better to have spare cash than to run out in the middle, as there are no ATMs beyond Namche Bazaar.

8. Training matters, but is often hyped: Rigorous physical training for the EBC trek is over hyped.  Having said that, you will need experience in extensive hiking, leg strength, and stamina. Most importantly, you will need the mindset and proper gear to push on despite the snow, rain, and wind.

9. Take your time to embrace nature and local culture: Take every opportunity to soak in the environment, including the yaks, prayer flags, monasteries, sunrises, sunsets, Alpine forests, Sherpa tradition, and the company of fellow trekkers.

10. It's more than a trek: For many, treks are transformative experiences—filled with reflection, personal growth, and a much-needed escape from everyday stress. Being close to nature gives us a rare opportunity to slow down and reconnect with who we truly are. Moreover, whether it is patience, time management, coordination, leadership, or motivation, trekking provides us the time and space to learn and revamp these essential skills. 





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